We did a lot of hiking up in Tennessee last week. We followed the upland trails that meander through the hardwood forests of the Cumberland Plateau. Some make their way down into the gorges cut by ancient streams that dig through the layers of limestone. Hickory and oak above the gorge. Hemlock and rhododendron along the steep slopes and creek bottoms.
Don’t be too impressed by our outdoor excursions. We are mid-level hikers. We are not backpacking. We are not carrying 50 lbs. of gear. We are not setting up tents and eating freeze-dried beef stew warmed up over a butane cook stove. We are simply walking with a light day pack.
We studied the maps carefully. Between the three state parks and the two state natural areas near our campground, there were 18 waterfalls that were listed as “within easy hiking distance.” We like waterfalls. We like hiking. But we are experienced enough to know that the word “easy” can be used to lure unsuspecting tourists into a world of regret.
When you get into the fine print of the maps you will see that the trails have key word descriptors that give you some indication of how difficult the trail may be. They’ll tell you how far it is to the falls and how much of an elevation change you’ll experience while on the trail.
EASY: This the flat trail that is typically no more than ¼ mile in length. The easy trails are usually well kept, wide, and in some cases are paved. You walk a short distance out to an overlook where you can view the falls from 300 feet above the gorge. Binoculars are recommended.
You meet lots of people on the easy trails. Older couples with walkers. Small children running free. Cute urban couples with cute urban dogs on a leash. College students on break. These trails remind me of being in line at Six Flags. The experience is up close and personal.
While standing at the railing over Fall Creek Falls we met a group of students from Vanderbilt University who were out together on a day trip. Marion engaged them in conversation, asking where they were from.
“You must be the brainiacs,” she said.
I might have called them salutatorians or something more dignified.
She continued. “What are you studying at Vanderbilt?”
They each rifled off an answer in succession. Biomedical Engineering. Applied Design and Medical Technology. Quantitative Cellular Biology. Environmental Chemical Science. Biophotonics and Imaging Technology. Blah. Blah. Blah. There were about 10 of them.
Marion smiled. “Yeah…you’re the brainiacs alright.”
MODERATE: This trail can be a bit more challenging. There is no pavement here. The hills can be long. The roots from trees that cross the trail must be navigated carefully. There can be a few rocks to climb over, or a series of steps cut into the trail. It can be narrow and when it gets close to the rim of the gorge, there are usually handrails to hold onto. You can normally expect to cover a couple of miles of hilly terrain.
You meet less people on the moderate trails, but they are still popular. There’s a lot of moving over to let faster hikers get by. Sometimes there’s a lot of moving over and hanging onto the rail to catch your breath.
These are our favorite trails.
We took a moderate trail into Burgess Falls. It was about a ¾ mile hike in and then back out. Lots of rock outcroppings. Several series of smaller falls and dramatic pools along the way. Burgess was, of course, all the way at the end of the trail.
On the way out we met a couple struggling up the steps at the halfway point.
“How much farther?” he asked me.
“You’re about halfway but these steps are the hardest part. Don’t give up. It’s worth the hike to see it.”
The trail into Piney River Falls was also rated as moderate. Located in a more remote area, it was a little over an hour’s drive to get there. No fancy Park entrance. No kiosk with trail information. Just a sign on a lonely one lane fire tower road with an arrow pointing to the trail head. One mile in and one mile out.
There was only one car in the small parking area. We backed in and got out. I took a swig from my water bottle.
“What do you think?” I asked Marion.
I’m thinking that this is a lonely place. No cell service. If one of us gets hurt, there ain’t no calling for help.
“We’re here,” she says. “Might as well give it a shot.”
The beginning of the trail was wide enough for a four-wheeler. Even though we trekked a few small hills, the walk was easy. About a half-mile in we could hear the waterfall in the distance. The trail split. We took the right side to the top of the falls.
It wasn’t far and the hike became a downhill descent. Boulders. Roots. Leaning hemlocks. Small tree trunks worn smooth from being used as handholds. When we came in sight of the water it became obvious that we were gonna have to cross the creek.
“Oh, my Lord.”
This was Maion’s way of expressing her enthusiasm for today’s hike. She hesitated.
“Do we have to cross that creek? You know I can’t swim.”
I reassured her that the boulders were steady, the water was only knee deep, and that it couldn’t be more than 200 feet down if she went over the falls.
On the other side, the trail took a steep climb to the top of the gorge and then turned downstream along the rim. I say the rim was 5 feet away. She says it was 2 feet. Either way, there was no rail, no fence, no barrier other than a handful of tiny trees. One mistake could take you 285 feet to the bottom of the gorge.
This was the second “Oh, my Lord.”
After a few hundred feet the trail began to wind down into the gorge. The trail was supposed to be leading us down to the bottom of the falls. We were still about 85 feet up when the trail ended at a sign with an arrow that pointed to a steel cable. It read: Use Cable to Steady Your Descent.
This was the third, “Oh, my Lord.”
It wasn’t easy. Two not-so-nimble retired folks sliding down over rocks, looking for footholds, and holding on to a cable for dear life. The fourth “Oh, my Lord” came about halfway down the cable.
At the bottom it took a minute to find the trail. We had not seen another living soul all morning. We followed the rock wall back toward the falls. It was absolutely gorgeous. The cool air. The fall colors. The water cascading from overhead.
Then Marion realized something. The trail was taking us into the cleft of the rock behind the falls. I turned around. She’s just standing there.
“Oh, my Lord.”
We made it out in good shape. Probably our roughest trail but worth the hike.
STRENUOUS: This is the third category.
We don’t do strenuous.